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Visitors to Hue are often taken aback to discover that the sleepy provincial town of Hue was once the religious, economic and cultural epicentre of Vietnam, the mighty Imperial headquarters, and the political capital of the country until 1945. That this glorious architectural masterpiece of a city should have been reduced almost completely to rubble as a result war is indeed a tragedy in the -1st sense of the word. Thirteen Nguyen Dynasty Emperors ruled Vietnam from Hue. They built a fortress around the ancient city, a huge Citadel, with walls 10 metres thick, modelled on Beijing's Forbidden City. Even this seemingly impenetrable defence though was useless during the Tet Offensive of 1968, when the proud city of Hue was reduced to ruins. Hue today has regained it's royal demeanour and is a calm, peaceful and relaxed place to visit. The remaining French colonial garden houses and villas, the quiet streets, the riverbanks, the outlying tombs and pagodas that escaped damage - all give Hue a unique atmosphere of tranquillity.